The basic Instinct
The basic Instinct
In 1750, a certain John Holker created the “Book of Samples” of the textile industry of France, in which eight models of trousers were depicted, strongly resembling modern jeans. However, the inventor of jeans in the modern understanding is Levi Straus, born in Bavaria in a large Jewish family, since 1829 a citizen of the United States. In March 1853, Levi moved to his sister in the San Fran Francisco enveloped in the gold rush, seizing, at the request of the brother-in-law, a load of coarse cloth to cover the walls. The enterprising Levy immediately realized that the main problem of the gold diggers was strong trousers … In 1960, the Soviet speculators Rokotov and Fainberg received the highest measure of punishment for foreign operations. The trade in jeans was featured as one of the charges. In 2000, Alexey Grekov and Valentin Yudashkina, who were the first to launch jeans in Russia, were joined by other Russian fashion designers. And no one promised a quiet life!
There is no longer any cowboys, but production is growing: in 1996, consumer demand for jeans jumped by 10%, the rise was rather significant so that Le Journal de Textile said: “Workwear with the name” jeans “no longer exists.” Jeans became a universal uniform, they began to be worn not only by men. Denim genie marches on the “ready-to-wear” sting, firmly occupying defiles and boutiques, conquering the inexorable world of ready-to-wear.
An exhibition was held at Galerie Lafayet: specifically for the “blue beast” an exposition hall was opened with an area of a thousand square meters. Huge advertising billboards proclaimed the “jeans style revolution”. Today it is safe to say: “tell me what jeans you wear, and I will tell you who you are.” They were considered a shapeless cloth – a bag – a bag, and they confidently take off on the pedestal of High Fashion.
Earlier, rockers “beat off” jeans with a wet broom to make them softer. Now they have become tender and do not need softeners, “breaking” the stretch, and can not stand the drying on the sun. From now on, jeans from famous fashion designers can be worn for years. These are chameleons, who feel fine at any time of the year – coarse or elegant, with shoes on a heel or army shoes. Bernard Zins, the main “pantsman” of France, jeans, whether they are “five-member” or “no-folds”, are honored with the same honors as flute trousers.
Main – label
From a formal suit to a suit from Helmut Langa … From a low-cut placket on the back to an ARS jacket, a baby on a muslin blouse … Faded jeans are everywhere in honor. At the beginning of the seventies, Yves Saint-Loren was the first among the couturiers to offer a “city” option of jeans. “I only complain about the fact that I did not invent jeans,” he could tell further, impaired by the denim boom.
In our days, Christian Lacroux expresses his delight at the national and ethnic traditions of the entire world. He creates his jeans by the dictates of the heart, not following the strategy of Kelvin Klein, who is recognized as the “father” of Haute Couture jeans. According to Christian Lacroux, Camarg is the French “wild West”, and its denim line, like Paul Smith Smith and the jeans, is probably the least conservative in the market. Ha Summer 1997 years dzhinsovaya collection of Lakrua ukrasilas embroidery (shtrishok du Faubourg Saint-Honore) and edakim nostalgicheskim trifles “great denim era” – short kurtkami with zaklepkami or platyami “bikini” of denima “grated on kamen” nadetymi nA shirt with applikatsiey. The whole program … The eccentricity of Lakrua goes against the American models.
Couturier gives preference, first of all, to his appearance, and only then he is interested in the fabric texture, washing technique, linchiness and style — sometimes decorative. RRL (Ralph Loren jeans collection), includes two models: vintage fit (traditional cut) and authentic fit; more tight … Nadva jeans, each tends to enjoy and at least a little to join the legendary era of gold miners. But the adventure will not be. “The mentality is evolving more and more towards the trend of No nonsense I Down to earth (less absurd / back to reality)>,” explains Wrangler, who celebrated its 50th anniversary in 1997.
Italy – superstars
“Cherruti”, “Armenia”, “Aisberg”, “Versace Sport”, “Trussardi”, “Critia”. Products of Italian companies were the first to break into the jeans market of Haute Couture. They caused a slight shiver in those who followed, but did not “devour” other collections. “Trussardi” jeans make up 30% of the total sales. As explained in the house of the fashion of Armenia, where the license for jeans is one of the most important contracts: “This gives the customer the opportunity to buy jeans for 550 prank …>
The active conquest of the Asian market opens up the possibility to update both the image and the clientele. The romantic halo of the prairie avant-turist is a thing of the past, giving way to a more ambiguous way of such a nasty little boy, his kind of Sicilian James Dean in “Marcel” (Dolce & Gabbana), or a teenage girl. “Critia”, heading Italian jeans brand in Japan (500 points for rated sales)